ESPN.com: Page 2 - Learning to ride the waves:

This ESPN page two piece resonates with your author after surfing out in LA for the first time a couple short months ago.


"Surfing is so hard, I hesitated before deciding which half my heart would listen to.
But it's such a gas, in the end, I couldn't hear the pain. I could feel it, but I couldn't hear it, you know what I'm saying?"